Paul Bridgeford's Blog

A bleak day wind howling. An 8.00 start but I get off 10 mins early to beat the wind.

An Oasis in the Desert

Sealed road for the first 50k and I’m averaging 45k. Road dead straight disappearing into the distance. Only 80 k for the day. Pass to where the lunch truck should be but I beat it. A race against the wind as he road turns through 90 deg and will be directly across.
Onto the dirt but well tracked. No one in sight behind me up a hill and the again the road like an arrow. Side wind but not too bad. Only 20k to the turnoff. Wind starts blasting and the wheels are blown out from under me.  Can’t get back on the bike so go to the side of the road and ride the ditch as some small protection. Back onto the main road and the wind changes to the rear.
Reach the turnoff and we end up in an oasis of a 20,000 hectare property. Amazing but I get in first.  Secure a shared room with an adjoining bathroom. Heaven. Anna still not arrived as she has gone in the lunch truck to get provisions and Internet to see if she can extend her trip.  Behind the station is a protective long hill curving around defining the green river flats against the surrounding dusty desert hills.  They farm beef sheep and horses. House was built in the 1920’s.  We are able to sit in the comfortable lounge and dining area and have a couple of beers.
Dinner for the house guests and I get a gurnzy as two are running late. After I have eaten my camping meal a second dinner.  Starter guanaco sliced thinly and marinaded followed by leg of sheep potatoes and a fantastic type of sponge pudding. A good bottle of red and port to follow, very sophisticated. An unexpected finish to a great day.

Morning start. The wind is building up from the west strong by the time we get going. We are told the new road only lasts for 5k. Heading up the first hill blown sideways and wonder if I can keep going. Reach the top and 3 have bailed waiting for the first truck. Road ends and I take the dirt. Real bonus new road alongside is partially sealed. No traffic as not open. Direction is now from the rear and I fly along through rolling desert country. No trees and sparse vegetation.  Use up the whole road. This goes on for 25k. Fantastic riding, stand up and keep at the same speed with the wind.
Then the road stops and massive construction crews creating the new road. Some is

newly rolled gravel. Still good to ride on. Country very boring flat to rolling no trees just clumps of ground cover. Then the gravel on the new road is large and difficult to ride. Move to the old dirt road as the west wind is now driving hard and e bank of the new one gives shelter.  Disappears under a new fence so put the bike and me under. Bit like an army obstacle course. Now a cross head wind. Try to crouch down on the bike and some shelter from the bank. Country the same endless rolling flat with flat topped hills surrounding. Tough and the lunch truck finally appears next to a workers hut. Give up for the day.
Good decision as pass the whole field who have been battling into a cross head wind and only the last 5 k paved.

Sunset disguises the strength of the winds

We were supposed to have a bush camp but we end up at a half built road side place.It apparently was started 3 years ago. Built out of blue stone. Good finishes and a big hall for us to eat in but the wind is gale force. Find a half finished blue stone hut more like a prison cell building materials everywhere thick dust on the floor but sheltered from the westerly. Put up anna’s tent interior and we sleep together nose to tail. At least it is warmer. The builders are uncooperative and the others have to put up tents outside. Freezing cold. No water showers or toilets. Wonderful

We are now into the pampas and it is flat undulating country with the occasional rocky outcrop. Pretty tired after yesterday so pretty much made the decision to only ride to lunch.

Wonderful Rock colours

Heavy climb out with cross wind. Hard work but then the wind changed and was a strong tail. Recon bout 50k as no wind when traveling at that pace. Touched 70 downhill on the paved road.  The road changed direction a few times and I could pick what it would be like when we were into the wind head on. It was pushing me across the road in gusts and a most impossible to head into it.

Multicolored rock faces start to appear oranges reds and whites.

Alfons & Monique Dancing on the Peddles

The road turns into the wind and upward. Diedier is a legend and has found a spot in a gully beside the road. Bike goes on the roof and we pass all the guys on e road including Anna. The wind builds up from the side and we arrive at our camping spot at 3.

Rud Pushing into the wind

called a town only a few houses a hotel The wind is pounding though. Can’t be our camping spot. Really nowhere to plant a tent sheltered from the wind or really almost no ground. Stephen puts a heavy chain around his. Fortunately there is some internal accommodation and I get a room with 4 beds.
The rescue truck left straight away and picked up a full load as cyclists were walking as the wind was so strong, including Anna. Luxury a completely hot shower adjoining the room and a toilet with a seat.

Martin the legend

Most slept in the area where we were eating. Good dinner and we went off to the general store / local pub for a couple of beers and an old smugglers whiskey. No respite with the wind.
A good decision to stop at lunch time.

Now that is Wind chain holding the tent down

Wonderful Desert Rocks

We are told the steepest hill on the trip to start.  1 in 10 approx.  All dirt. Fortunately the wind behind us.  the first steep hill partially paved but a long 10 k. As we are now on the dry side of the Andes the country changes. no trees and scrubby desert with low ground cover.

The lake is a magnificant green colour.  Pass an armadillo on the track but too quick to phots.  rugged mountains surround where the wind has etched away some of the rock outer layers to leave interesting fingers pointing to the sky. Always the lake to the right.  <many uphill climbs on the dirt road.  one of the riders Dick about my age falls with a suspected broken rib where he hit a rock.

Finally make it to the lunch truck after a big effort pretty tired.  Thought about not riding in the afternoon but was pursuaded to ride on as mostly downhill with the wind behind.  Set off with Victor and youg medico from Brisbane.  <lots of corrugations make it tough on the hands.  Stop every so often to stretch.  Generally good wide dirt road with some tracks for fast biking.  <powerful wind at times am able to cruise along at 30k.

Get to camp at 5.30 time for a warm shower and wash a few clothes and dinner.   Early to bed ready for another big day of 120 tomorrow half sealed .  <my try to find a drink with Alfonse later.

Great Colours in a Grey Landscape

Well left the comfortable hotel room for the camp site for bresakfast.  Camp site looks more like a vehicle wreckers yard. Started to rain so did a rapid change of riding gear.

Wilbert let us know the glad tidings that the 9 days to El Calafate will be tough.  must have been premonition.  there is realy not much between here and there, apart from the pampàs and wind.  Off we go in light rain which soon becomes heavier. we immediately start climbing for the next 3 hours fortunately on sealed road.  Feet start to get wet even though I have boots on.  Local dog follows 2 of our riders for some k´s.

Evening on the biggest inland lake in Chile

We sight a pass ahead and start a long climb. Grey clouds make the scenery invisible.  a small downhill and a massive gust of wind from nowhere almost stops me in my tracks.  climb again and it the first top in snow. Getting seriously cold as gloves saturated. At 70 k sight the lunch truck.  In covered with a blanket and can´t stop shivering.  Ride over for me for the day. Transfer to the camping and provision truck squeezed in with all the food.

Finally get to the camp ground with a Pategonian wind blasting through. Change into dry clothes get mine and Annas stent up and start a fire in a smal open sided hut.  At least now warm.

Dinner beers and after dinner head into the small town beside the largest lake in Chile Argentina with Alfonse & Monique. Bottle of red and the owner explains the town used to be a centre for shipping wool across the lake.

all saturated clothes and shoes dried off beside the fire.

Bed till 10. Bought stuff including a black poncho to go with the hat. Cleaned the bike link by Link. Rested and good fish dinner in great restaurant tonight
Off to bed as 11.30
Really looking forward to 9 days straight with no rest day. But then that’ s it. Holiday trial over.

Decide to take the truck for the second half after lunch as tired. Don’ recover as fast.

Anna and Eric disappearing onto the tough road

Pissing with rain fir the start and forgot the sealed stopped after 10 k. Cloudy so miss what I am sure was wonderful scenery.
Gluggy corrugated dirt for 20 k. Slow, gears grind and de railer pulls and chain jams. Have to stop twice and use water bottles to wash out the gears. Not nice.
Finally sealed still raining push on with Anna. Weather improves and lunch comes. Stick to my goal of stopping. By the way a lot of riders bailed and the camping truck was full.
Got to Coihaique early after the truck stopped with air in the fuel line and had to cycle the last 10 k downhill.
Good army base town. Found hotel and left what was an average camp site. Warm bed. Dinner ato the camp site. Laundry organized and party at Martin & peter’s place. Supermarpket the biggest I have seen stopcock up with wine & eese for party.
The youth want to keep me up till 5.
Drinks and cheese till 1.00 then off to the disco. Bailed at 3.30. Great bunch of people. rood the 21 year old who organized the trip through sponsorship wasql very funny. He’ about 6′ 6.
Barking at dogs on the way. I call him my grandson. – he could be.

Cloud hanging over the glacier but water pouring off

At least dry. On dirt behind the lot. Wet roads. Pass a couple of riders and get to the big hill 600 m over 10 k. Determined to get to the top without stopping. Grind away. Wonderful l country. Rugged rocky saw toothed peaks waterfalls and hair pinned bends on the dirt road. Get skilled in picking the top edge of the corner.
Loose count on the number of them. At last nearing the pass ah lead between 2 massive peaks. See the valley behind me and the glacier. Constant sound of raging water around. Finally launch truck in sight. Rest. Anna there before and she sets off for the downhill.

Beautiful Cornice on top of the winding climb

A bit of an uphill and a magnificent sight on the right. Glacier with water poring out of the rocks beside vertically 100’s of meters. Towering rock faces.
THen the challenge 500 m down over 8 k. Brakes hold on the pebbly corners!
Bonus sealed road at the base and cruise into a camp by a lake in the sun. Hot shower and a cold beer from the woman who. Runs the place. Perfect
Finish off the Argentinian old smugglers whisky and share it around in front of the fire.
Rain starts in the night what a pain keeps me awake.

Beers on the Verandah post shower

Day started off well. Felt strong and was determined to get to lunch before Anna.

Racing scull on the milk run

Competition between father and daughter. Country not as stunning as the day before. All dirt so challenging but was determined to make up as much time as possible on the downhills. All good until I had passed Leah a very fit female marathon runner from Switzerland who hated men passing her. She then passed me going up a steep incline. I changed to granny gear fast and bummer the dust jammed the gears and over I went and leah escaped. Settled down and enjoyed the ride passing over the river many times. Good dairy farmland that had been cleared from forest.

Minor Repairs to Dick's Bike - new wheel

Pushed ahead and aiming to beat Anna to the lunch truck. Small mini village petrol station and a couple of houses. Saw Christian ahead a French rider who’s wife is with him and always by himself. Passed and ahead was Leah. On a mission. Overtook on a hill. Dirt roads good and easy to speed downhill as good surface. Surroundings were massive peaks kith waterfalls cascading down. This is a country not of lakes but fast flowing rivers and falls.

Fiaming Sunset

Finally reach lunch. Cold, wind blowing. Chairs set out like about to look at a tv screen. Extra jacket in the truck so keep warm. Leah turns up not talking. Probably pissed off. Wait for Anna & look forward to riding with her for the afternoon slower pace.
An hour and get cold. We set off and rain starts. Cold. Dirt turns to sludge. Nasty. Not the kind of afternoon had imagined. Rain gets worse and a steady climb up only 150 m but challenging in the wet. In fact a shit of a day. Finish the uphill and a fast dirt down Anna streaks ahead to a fishing village. Yes we sight the pacific in what is like a fiord. At least 25k from the ocean. Miserable. I want to stop for a drink but no chilean cash. See lunch truck stopped but Anna wants to keep going. She has the card with her. Pissed off. Plod on uphill. All grey and wet. Miserable. Vow not to have anna make decisions again. Silly really but tired.
The g lug of the road makes gears stick and the chain starts jamming uphill. More pissed off. We miss the turn off to the camp site and ride 5 ks further. Finally get there in pooring rain. Eric let’s Anna know about an information hut to sleep in. Anna gets a space as I have had to walk uphill as gears jamming. Set up mat Anna next to me and one of the other old guys at 90 deg.
Off to shower. All hot gone freezing like really. Back to dinner in a dark dingy shed with fire in middle. Find back brake pad missing from bike. Fortunately one of e other riders have one. Off to hut to fix in dark. Do that and clean chain of glug. Bed with sleeping tablet.
Complain about cold showers
Up in morning for a late start. Walk to glacier. No rain but cloudy. Suspension bridge over a roaring river. Up to the glacier lake, a magnificent soft olive green in colour. Cloud layer too low to see glacier but wonderful seeing masive waterfall poring seemingly out of the clouds. Start 10 mins after all the others.

Was very tired after yesterday and so decided to take the truck after lunch.

Sawtooth Peaks - Spot the Condor

Beautiful country narrow unpaved road. Lots of photos of waterfalls lakes with craggy mountains surrounding. Post & rail fences and fencing from logs put in vertically. Swampy areas with dying trees in them look rather like ti tree. Reach the lunch truck after mostly downhill dirt. Getting faster and reading the road better.
Truck along the dirt road oassing the other riders including Anna. Good photos of her pushing uphill covered in dust.

Tree Stump Fencing

Reach our bush camp beside a fast flowing river. Again very cold for washing off the days dust. Tall mountains surround. Local farmer lives on the other side of the river and rows across the veer fast flow in the morning to deliver warm milk straight from the cow.
In all a pretty good day and body has recovered somewhat after the half day rest.

Swamp land

Anna the Samuri