Paul Bridgeford's Blog

Serene lakes

We head toward Chile through the town of Trevelin. A sign of the Welsh heritage of this part of Pategonia.
It.s tough as uphill dirt with occasional trucks passing. Heaps of dust a challenging to ensure on the right side of road around corners. This is difficult as often the best path through the stones is on the wrong side, so constantly changing direction. The top of the corner is always best as less corrugation.
More lakes to the left and onto paved but head wind so still slow. Thought lunch was at 60 so paced myself for that then remembered was at trevelin. Back onto the worst unpaved for the day and rather dull flatter country. Large pebble patches down to 6k per hr to negotiate. It’s hot. Not happy. Finally hit traveling after 75k at least the biggest part of the day done. Was going to give up and take the truck but Victor our new australian arrival said go on, so Dick & I leave together. A hard afternoon over heavily corrugated roads. Very rough. We finally hit the Argentinian border, passports then into chile customs. Back onto sealed roads, I like chile already. Truck takes for ever to clear customs as have to pull put all provisions, wood bits inspected etc.

Out of Argentina into Chile - Sealed roads!

Head off on the sealed road with wonderful yellow gorse like bushes each side heavily perfumed.
Bush camp in a cow paddock, cow shit everywhere. Next to a river so walk down and wash off the days dust there. Cold – very cold water. Dry off cloths from last night’s washing. Old smugglers Argentinian whisky in my tea and bed.

We leave El Boston a rather uninteresting town and on sealed road for the first 50 k.

Gin & Tonic by the lake

Push up to 800 m and hit unpaved. Tall peaks around with snow on the tops. To give an idea of unpaved the surface varies from solid packed mud like dirt, minimal, through large pot holes that have to be weaved through fast, to large loose gravel, to large stony pebbles. Hit a corner or even on the straight and you never know what is coming next.
I’m still tentative on going downhill fast but improving. Seems to be a bit like skiing, light hands on the handle bars, sit off the saddle gripping it between the legs sitting back almost behind it. Takes a lot of concentration always watching for the best track through the road surface and leaning sideways to get e direction.

Water View

The conditions here were rolling so down to lowest gear for the uphill pinches then let go as much as possible for the downhill. On the flat is worst with constant corrugations vibrating the whole body. No need for a bum massage as the bike and road give it constantly. Hands take a beating.
Climbed from 200 to 800 m and rolling along. Anna disappeared as much faster downhill. A beautiful lake appears on the right and I hit the national park gates. Cycle through some primal forest. Massive trunks and mossy understory and finally reach e camp tired as the dirt road is wearing. Beautiful spot on the lakes edge in full sun. Tables set for dinner on the water edge. Up with the tent still damp from last night. Soon drys.

A magical lake

Hot shower fantastic and am able to wash out my gear and dry it in ththeremaining sun

Is it a Leopard

Started off from the hotel al together but a big climb out when not really warmed up.

Fantastic reflections on one of the rare still days

Great country high mountain peaks sealed road. Caught up with Rachel who was by herself and needed help into the wind. She drafted for 20 k or more. Wind died and managed a great photo of snow covered peak reflected in the lower lake.
Lunch after a fantastic downhill through forested slopes. Lasted 10k or more sweeping bends 50 to 55 k no brakes. Bike is wonderful after the new bearings. No sound except for the wind in the ears and the rushing of water of the streams flowing.
Anna & I set off together after lunch uphill. Grind up. Crest the top and we look into a timbered valley with 4 condors gliding overhead. We stop to try to photograph. Beautiful.
Up again and we crest the final hill for a long 30 k downhill to the campsite. Headwind keeps us honest. A wonderful waterfall seemingly coming out of the top of the mountain. Still down and finally a snow town with a grassy campsite set amongst tall pine ripe trees. Supermarket for beers wine and local whisky for the next couple of bush camps.

Unwinding at day's end

Great dinner of fresh trout pasta followed by cheese platter and port. Ready for turning in as the first day after a rest day and getting back into cycling mode again. Early night.

Gooday Dick

The Daily Wash up

Need it. Breakfast at 10. Bike shop gets bearings out and Philippe & I get new bearings as bike shop man doesn’t have time. Also he picks up the spokes are in the wrong way. Will take up with richmond cyclery on return.

Ice Cream Race - The winner Eric

Pick it up at 8 tonight only 120p plus bearings 55.
A great rest day. Anna bumps into me as I lunch with philippe. A quick beer and en ice cream and a siesta.
Ready for 120k tomorrow.
Good dinner with Alfonse & his wife. Malbec is the wine from this area and it went well with the venison.
This is a snow resort with a casino next to the hotel. Not a lot of character but good for a break.

Decide to do this in one hit as want to get there early to get bike fixed. All sealed and ride along the lake. Push ahead pass the lunch truck. Into a strong head wind by myself. Can see our destination across the lake & hope wind stays the same as will end up being a tail.

Bariloche from the other side

Hit a T junction and yahoo yes flying all the way. Get to our hotel at 1first there. Luxury a bath in the room. Sit and soak up. Then find a bike shop that looks serious. Leave bike with him though no language. Hope. Tired so no big night out. Steak restaurant and in bed by 11.00. Others out till 4 or 5.

The best day yet, no time pressure and beautiful country. A real holiday rest day on the bike. It starts off sealed then to dirt, a road similar to many mountain roads in Australia.

Water so clear - like Australia's bush

Streams everywhere, glistening clear water over granite like rock. Clear blue skies. Photograph trees flowers rivers. Lake after lake all deep blue in colour with stunning mountains around.
Pass a goucho on horseback with 3 well trained dogs attending. Lunch truck overlooks yet another lake. Sit soaking up the sun. They are making a new road here which will probably be sealed in coming years. Over a bridge, look down into the water so deep but clear enough to see the bottom in detail. A fly fisherman under the bridge. He won’t catch anything as I can see no fish there. Wrong time of the day.
Up a big climb on dirt. Jacket off hot in the sun.

Gaucho on the road

Bridge?

Then at last no more corrugations and sealed up to a viewing spot. Amazing huge lake stretching for 180deg set off with snow capped mountains behind.
Riding down only a couple of k’s from camp when sight a wine bar high up overlooking the lake. Paul.. Martin Peter & Rachel are there with a bottle of white. 5 later I leave them to find their own way back. Keep a straight line just.
Good camp site, dinner, check out 2 bike shops no go after having left it at one. Frustrating. Chocolate & a couple of beers & back to camp.

The end of a great day

Al Last the Lakes - magnificent

We start off as a bunch into the wind strong head and bunch gets messy as many no idea of bunch riding. Finally downhill into a beautiful skiing village for lunch. Spend time to 2 bike shops for wheel. No go.
The town sits beside one of the lakes. Very pretty dark blue water surrounded by snow capped hills. Anna gone, start off with Alfonse & Monique. Long climb on sealed. Great scenery looking back to the lake, grassy farmland and slopes timbered. Lots of photo stops. By myself and scenery gets more rugged with towering rocky peaks surrounding. Rear wheel grinding. Stunning. Tiring then start on a rolling downhill 1.5k to go and stop at a beautiful waterfall. Then roll into camp. Beautiful spot next to a lake again with rugged snow capped mountains around.

The Organising Team relaxing

Better still a timbered room with a red hot pot bellied stove in the centre looking over the lake with a plentiful supply of beer. Up with the tent, life is looking good. Dinner inside then in front of the stove view of lake, and Scottish Stephen & I demolish copious bottles of beer. Manage to find my way back to tent in dark just.

Yep it was a wet start. Tent soaking along with the end of the sleeping bag & thermorest.

Looks like a castle with a drawbridge

Great. Still raining. Trucks moved to have breakfast in the camp room. Cold as well as wind still blowing. Some bail & stay in truck. Dug out the wet gear & off. River up a half meter but fortunately just below the tent. Anna was smart moving her tent.
Long downhill for almost 70k along the river. Start on sealed then dirt. Ahead some blue sky. Stops raining fantastic. Anna & I ride together. River by this time flowing fast. Green grass & flowers around. Beautiful after the dry desert like country.
I’m learning about downhill on dirt. Sit back on the bike weight on the peddles bum off the saddle, no weight on the handlebars just held loose. Hit a pb at 40k helped by the damp road.
Hit the lunch truck and check the bike with Philippe who confirms the rear wheel bearing stuffed. Sounds like a tractor with metal grinding on metal. Can feel it through the whole bike. Thinks it will get me to Bariloche. Will it?
Anna & I start off, heavens open down to 3 deg nasty. Blue sky ahead then the big dirt hill into wind. Grind up for 12k. Plenty of photos as the country changing to mountain. Little vegetation.
We make it then long testing downhill dirt with lots of corrugations and finally sealed into the wind so downhill makes little difference.
Camp ground and for 30pesos I get a bunk room to myself & it’s warm. Luxury as bathroom heated and hot showers. No toilet seat but you can’t have everything. Dry off tent sleeping bag etc, wash out gear in hot water. Fantastic, ready to start another day after another great camp dinner of meat sauerkraut & potatoes. Sleep like a log.

We pretty much all started together in what is very sparse country. The rain shadow side.

The big swirl and trees the first for some days

Sealed rd up a steady hill & I wait at the top and Anna & I slog it out into a wind. As we get higher up the wind increases and from the side in very unpredictable gusts. Occasional cars and trucks passing.
From the desert country we have been used to for the past week it now changes to monkey puzzle trees and real alpine country with snow covered peaks surrounding us.

Sphinx !!!

Didier Looking at Sphinx ??

Anna now ahead and I get off the bike and walk as gale force winds blowing me across the road. Don’t want to end up road kill. Beautiful country apart from the wind. Dick catches up and we ride together until he gets off after almost being blown into the river. We walk until the rescue truck picks us up 1 k from the lunch stop.

Rock on

Lunch inside and talk to one of the road working gang foremen. This is the windiest spot in argentina.
I bail for the afternoon as 80k on dirt downhill. Anna takes off at high speed. We get a big rock stuck between the tires of the truck. Our Forman friend turns up unannounced with a length of steel tube which he puts between the rock & the road. The truck reverses & the rock is prized out. Clever.
Great views on the way down with snow covered mountains and the first sight of a Pategonian lake. The monkey puzzle trees give way to pine trees and some plantations. Following fast flowing river down all the way. The first real flowing river on the trip.

Collingwood mountain

Camp beside the river cold but fine. Lots of locals celebrating the start of the fly fishing season. Put up anna’s tent beside the river which she promptly moves. Must have been premonition as high winds and torrential rain overnight. Pack up the next morning in the wet. Really great!

Back wrestling

Bush Camp fire

Started out feeling ok after the rest day. Downhill out of town very dull barren landscape nothing to photograph the a long 15k climb up and I am in the lead well ahead of e rest so I keep plodding on. Over the top and fast for me downhill on paved 50 to 60 when the first of the youth passes. Then the other 3 and we are a bunch of 5 drafting each other well. There is a time trial to lunch at the 75 k mark. Anna & I agreed was riding my ride today. On we went till the last 350 m climb from 45 k to 75 k. Held on for a while and the bunch were kind and let me draft them. My old legs couldn’t keep up and I ended up 5th at lunch and knackered. Stupid of me really.
Puncture at lunch. Fixed but find one of my tubes wrong valve. Anna to the rescue – where would fathers be without daughters. Of with dick a fit 62 year old. Wind picks up to cross head and we work it together for 50 ks or so mainly rolling. Eric terns up and works the lead for the last 15k till we get to a quite barren sandy bush? Camp. Up with the tent and a quick wash in the stream And a windy dinner with gusts of sand. Not really the place for a resort. Forgot to mention personal details intermittent nose bleed most of the trip. Must be the increase in blood pressure through high exertion.
Camp fire a few nips of whisky to keep warm and to bed by 9 as up at 5.30 next morning for an early 7 start to beat the wind. Pategonia is known for wind coming from the west and we are heading that way.
Why do we do this stuff. Because it takes me out of the comfort zone. And it’s back to basics like hot shower – not too many of those luke warm better than nothing. A comfortable toilet seat, beer after a ride, hot dinner which these guys always provide where ever we are. And it’s always good and amazing given the conditions.