Paul Bridgeford's Blog

Good flight to La Paz but the altitude certainly had an affect picking up the bags and bike at 3.30 in the morning. Taxi to hotel and remembered la Paz from the visit there with Jill before the inca trail. Bike dreams guys arrived around lunch time and gave Anna a big hug. Great to see her. Looking very fit after 4000 k of cycling. All very friendly.
Spent the next 3 days wandering around the very mountainous La Paz trying to acclimatize. The highest capital in the world at 3700m. Was tough even climbing up stairs at first. Bought a few presents. No alcohol for the three days. Got to know the rest of the group.
Of particular interest were the art Gallary and the cultural museum. The latter had some great displays of feathered head dresses and carnival masks along with ancient pancho’s
Looking forward to getting on the bike as no really bad effects from the altitude apart from breathing or rather more like panting. The old body must be working hard at producing some more red blood cells.
The most amazing observation on La Paz is the number of street vendors. Every day they bring in their wares set up and take them all down in the evening for what must be ver small sales. Bolivia is a very poor country one of the poorest in south America. But there are signs of improvements in particular the education system. Lots of children in school uniforms and met one of the shop staff a young girl who worked her family store of traditional clothing by day and studied international trade by night.

Stage 3 Cadaques
Fast train from Madrid to Barcelona. No problem with bike box as stations have trolleys – fantastic. Then car to Cadaques. The last 30 k a winding road through the mountains and the sight of a rugged coast and the town nestled against the coast. Pretty much untouched and surrounded by national park. Our house up a narrow hilly street – no car access. Then up a flight of steps to the front door. A charming restaurant opposite for a good meal of fresh fish. A very relaxing 10 days with highlights as follows
– two wonderful meals at a local restaurant run by 3 of the previous chefs from the world famous il Bulli. Eg small pieces of cod with honey foam on top. The last one with John Barrett and jacinta who happened to be on a tour to the Dali house at port ligat
– unpacked the bike and most days explored the tracks of the national park headland. Great country and some testing riding. The park has a lot of stones very slate like with terracing once covered with vines which were wiped out by phylloxera in the early 1900’s
– Reinhard and Heidi arrived on Wednesday thro to Sunday and we explored the town cooked some meals at the house. Weather great allowing us to get full use of the deck overlooking the sea.
– visited the Dali house at port ligat which was quite amazing. Room after room with winding corridors and artwork throughout. Probably a sign of the man – only one bedroom.
Jill and I had a very relaxing 10 days and is the place I could easily return to.

Why do a group of people put themselves through such a tough trial. Tough both physically and mentally. Answers for myself but each will have their own reasons
– It is the best way to experience the wonders of the Andes range. Moving from rain shadow desert to lush alpine lakes and to the desert wastes of southern Pategonia. Even with the rigors of wind and rough unpaved roads a bicycle allows clear views and the ability to stop to photograph at will. Even to drift another 20m to get a better angle.
– I am a lucky man to have been fit enough to share the experiences with my daughter and that she would want to travel with me. We both cared for each other in a relaxed way and did our own thing. Only one spit of the dummy from me. We shared the laughs, the winds so strong our bikes were blown away from us even whilst walking, the dinners each day, camping and the parties before each rest day and the friendships made in the group.
– a test of mental strength to keep going when the conditions say otherwise. Riding in the rain on unpaved roads when the mud glues up he whole bike. Gale force winds that literally come from nowhere and blow the bike from under on unpaved and right across the road on paved. Either no shower or a freezing one at the end of the day.
– a greater appreciation of the simple pleasures of life. Hot showers, a toilet seat to sit on, sharing experiences with the other riders and crew over dinner at days end.
– learning that as the body ages recovery takes longer. Over the last 9 day stretch without a rest day, stringing more than two full riding days together was almost impossible. In 9 days 5 full days and 4 half days to recover. Those under 40 were able to work hard every day. Peter the race leader had ridden the complete day every day for 96 riding days from Quitto to El Calafate.
– learning new riding skills. On the first day of unpaved I fell off 4 times the next twice. Max speed 20k. At the end 45 to 50k downhill and 35k on the flat. Able to handle corrugations large pebbles soft sand changing tracks at speed, reading the road, taking e high line on bends. Thanks Philippe and Anna for the tips.
– the routine of camping, breaking and making camp every day even when tired.
– no time to think about anything apart from the road, the bike, the scenery dinner, is there more unexpected paved road, rather than the endless vibration of corrugated unpaved, will there be a hot shower, a toilet?
– being positive no matter what happens
– riding with a 50 to 60 k wind on the back, standing on the peddles and flying. On one piece of new road not open to traffic to use the whole road at will in these conditions was thrilling.
– meeting the great fellow riders and admiring those who had ridden the whole distance. Something I don’t believe I could have done.
– and finally thanks to the Bike Dreams crew who made it all possible. Didier who drove the lunch truck and made lunch every day and rescued us when the conditions were too tough for us to get in on time. Wilbert & Rob who organized the whole expedition and were there on their bikes checking for stragglers. Philippe who kept the bike together and who helped me organize a new rear wheel bearing on his rest day. And Derik who was supposed to be riding but changed to drive the truck when they were a driver short. And finally Ellen and Edson who bought al the provisions and every day produced great filling meals so we were ready with enough energy for the next day. . The team helped me achieve one of the hardest things I have experienced.

Relaxed at rides end

An hours bus ride through the national park. As we get closer the vegetation changes to fairly densely treed conifers. The first we have seen for the past 9 Days.
Up a rise on the winding road and there it is a massive river of ice stretching as far as the eye can see and some 3k wide at the face where it rises some 150m from the lake surface. Constant thunder claps as ice peels off and falls into the water.
It is stunning and not surprisingly world heritage listed.
The top is rugged with icy peaks and deep deep blue streaks in the crevasses. Filaments of earthy material streak the face. We take the boat to get closer. Worthwhile. A massive thunder clap and a sheet of ice falls into the lake. Lots of photos. The weather is cloudy but good visibility.
Lback to shore and take to the paths to view where it comes to shore on the headlands point of the park. The glacier stretches in both directions with a lake at each face. Dark water rushes through an ice bridge from on lake to the other.
it was worth while cycling 3165k to see the wonder.
Back and out for a final dinner with Alfonse monique Anna Hank Annik and didier. To bed. Summary of the ride to follow.

We Missed the Wind

My last night bow tie party

Michiel always positive

Getting later

An adventure inside an adventure. Up at 2.45 mostly packed already. Dug out the lights for the bike last night. Pack up the tent in torchlight. All very quiet. Figures moving about stealthily. Up the grassy slope to the car park together. Lights on. Like a commando exercise, 8 of us together we set off on the road. No wind. Sit on 25 rolling along mindful of the slower. Gerard on a heavy bike with side pannier. No moon but a slight glimmer in the sky to the east.
Up 200 m over 8 k. Wait at the top. Power bar as no breakfast. Chilling fast as slight breeze from the west and the glaciers. Another stop for nature and a great long downhill to sight the sodium lights of el calafate across the lake. Still 60k to go around the lake and the last part to the west where the wind comes from. Sight the first small iceberg in the lake broken off from the glacier. White peaks in the distance.
We finally hit the T junction. Right to El Calafate. No wind. A rolling hilly ride. We break up a bit but Martin, Leah, Gerard, Migel, Rood, Raechel, Jasper and I all wait as we finally reach the sign as we enter El Calafate. Photo stop. 8. 15 and we arrive after a great ride. What a way to finish the adventure for me. Into a room at Los Dos Pinos. Luxury. Breakfast first at the bakery across the road. Brought some clothes in the back pack.
A whole day to get organized. Shower, off to buy food and drinks the party tonight. It’s a bow tie party! Some shopping for a few last presents. Anna comes in around 1.00 after a tough last 40k into the wind. Philippe enjoys telling the tail how he had to wait at the T junction in a tent for 3 days before the wind would let him ride the last 40 k. He tried pushing the bike then breaks on and another step.
Anna fixes up her extended tickets snooze and ready for dinner and party. Start to pack up anna’s bike as she now takes mine as the bottom bracket bearings stuffed on hers.
So the bike rides on with her tires and saddle. Go Cannondale.
Dinner great and then music on in the dining area. Groucho hat bow tie & cape all make ties out of a great selection of materials including black plastic bags, sweets etc. Dancing and almost the whole group there young and old. Run out of beer and wine, off to get mor supplies. I’m called a goucho on the way there. Disguise works. 1 am I sneak off to bed only to have the door burst open and Rood, migel Martin and Anna drag me off to a night club and dancing. What a great end to the trip.

The Massive Fitz-Roy and glacial lake

Michiel if the hat fits

Left 15 mins early to beat the wind. Over the stony road through the town. Then wonders sealed road through softer rolling hills. Pass a few of the earlier starters. Great riding averaging around 25 into a slight head wind. Come through a small pass between 2 rises and before the first glimpse of e FitzRoy range and in the distance and on the right the twin peaks of the Fitzroy. What luck a brilliant clear day and the glaciered peaks glisten in the sunlight. 2 German tourists we met at angostura saw nothing as was cloudy. We are blessed.
Lunch truck ahead and I just squeak in first before Martin and Peter. Soon after breakfast so a brief stop for a sweet cake. And on again. The whole range unfolds to the right contrasting against the soft hills of the desert country. Then the glacier lake appears at the foot of the mountains. Time for a photo stop.
Still concerned about wind so press on with 25 k to go. 12k out I hear a bike behind and get a push on my bum and Peter & Martin say join in. Up the pace drafting them. Peter is 16 hours in the lead on the race to Ushuia and Martin only trails him because he hit a donkey at 60k’s and was lucky to get away with minor injuries and was in the truck for 3 days recovering after a trip to the hospital.

What's going on - stuck zip

We power on and very soon we get to Luz Devina a homestead with a warm timbered restaurant with a wood stove sitting beside the river. A beautiful warm sunny day with only a couple of wind gusts occasionally. We are first in at 10.45. What to do
but have a beer. Off to the restaurant and a slice of apple flan cooked in the wood stove. 6 rounds later and e same number of emponadas we are slowing and at 1.30 of to put up the tent for the last time. Then sit in it and have a sleep for a couple of hours.

Our hosts

Clean the bike from the mud of the previous day a glass or 2 of red before dinner. Pasta with cream sauce salad and pudding after. Then off to bed as 8 of us are leaving early to beat the wind. Up at 3.

The Tortoise - Rud

Start uphill light wind. Long up. Reach the top and in front is a dead straight road with a headwind. No escape. Anna drafting me where possible 10 to 15k/hr max. We grind on through more desert country. Clouds grey ahead and looks like rain. Grab the wet weather gear from the backup pack and a second lot of socks.
Rains hard but the wind dies away somewhat. Have to watch out for the muddy road from the rain. Clogging up the tires.

Wanted this man -Steven muddy

Push on for lunch at 50k. Truck next to an abandoned shelter where the new road is being built. Decide to take the truck to camp. Anna’s bottom bracket is grinding and pretty stuffed. She swaps my seat and uses my.bike after lunch. I’ take her bike home with me and she will get to ushuia with mine. Philippe spent o2 hours trying to fix the bearing but didn’t have the tool to tighten it.
The camping is unknown but lo and behold a new shower block and a corner shop for la beer. Wind not quite as strong and tents protected by the trees.
BBQ dinner tonight.
The town if you can call it that nestles beneath one ofl the endless log hills.  Dusty rocky roads and not really much going for it.. A bit like the lake yesterda. Can’t reallly ever see a resort being bill there.

We start off early in an attempt to beat the wind. It gets to 10.30 in the morning and the wind doesn’t appear.  All unpaved an unlike yesterday quite a few climbs. Dirt roads

No Trees

disappearing into the distance straight as a die.  Only stop for 5 mins for lunch. Riding with Anna.

A long dead straight road starts to curve downward and there in front of us a blue lake contrasting with the rocky terrnain around with white topped mountains in the distance.

Up a couple more hills and on the right

A Great Shady Lunch spot

is la Siberia. We are there at 11. Almost like a rest day. And the weather is warm. Secure a room all to myself. Better than sharing with 4 others as normal.

Track down to the lake so take the bike and set off in the sun.  Top a grey sand dune with a track through and pure desolation. Stony and barren to the lake’s edge.

Give up the idea of a swim but Rud one the Dutch young people goes ahead.

Photo of 2 guanaco with Rud in between.

Get back to camp for an afternoon nap.
Dinner inside risotto pork chop and veggies. Wine beers and last of the whisky in my tea shared around.